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Honing
Nov 7, 2012 11:09:59 GMT -12
Post by chillidog on Nov 7, 2012 11:09:59 GMT -12
Looking to optimise a seagull may be considered a fruitless exercise by some . I figure a reasonable place to start is from each end of the drive shaft and work your way to the middle , so I'm at this point . At having procured a ball hone , as opposed to a standard tri blade type , I'm pleased with my first try . No cross hatching is evident and this is probably due to to me having the devalt cordless on too higher speed but it's even and I rotated the hone in both directions for about 15 seconds each . I'm just trying to create a good surface that will hold oil and allow my new rings to seat . Removing the existing mirror surface but leaving as much of the bore material intact . This is not something I think you'd need to do often as seagulls don't wear much when run at 10:1 anyway . I believe an advantage of this type of hone is the slight radius it imparts on the a edge of the bore ports . Some tuners believe this makes you less likely to pick up a ring and improves gas transfer others think it mucks gas flow . Take your pick . I'm just trying to get the best seal between piston and bore at the lowest friction cost . in the picture you will notice some pitting at the top of the cylinder , as this is way above the level of where the rings get to , I'll leave it as is . Attachments:
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Honing
Nov 7, 2012 12:59:31 GMT -12
Post by 1650bullet on Nov 7, 2012 12:59:31 GMT -12
Thats perfect for a seagull. Because they are such an oily and low reving motor you dont need to go overboard with honing them out, You have cleaned the bore up enough to bed eveything perfectly.
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Honing
Nov 7, 2012 15:46:52 GMT -12
Post by chillidog on Nov 7, 2012 15:46:52 GMT -12
this is the hone I used . rings at 4thou engine run 20 mins today Attachments:
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Honing
Nov 8, 2012 6:32:47 GMT -12
Post by thetinker on Nov 8, 2012 6:32:47 GMT -12
After you hone the bore with one of these hones make sure you wash the bore with hot soapy water very well. and oil surface afterwards. Helps with rings bedding in. Cleans out the surface pores.
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Honing
Nov 10, 2012 21:23:34 GMT -12
Post by chillidog on Nov 10, 2012 21:23:34 GMT -12
prior to putting the head back on I make sure top of head is flat and clean by sanding on flat surface ( in this case plate glass) just lightly oiled in gentle orbital motion . Attachments:
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Honing
Nov 11, 2012 18:23:51 GMT -12
Post by chillidog on Nov 11, 2012 18:23:51 GMT -12
this is a tank I'm going use polished up, for something different , saw some else run a motor like this . thought it looked cool. Attachments:
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tony
New Member
Posts: 9
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Honing
Nov 19, 2012 9:21:32 GMT -12
Post by tony on Nov 19, 2012 9:21:32 GMT -12
Hmmmm...my first post...this looks like it could be a fun site...that ball hone looks interesting...have you a source for the one that you used?
Which grit did you get? 20,40,60 etc
Compound?Tungsten Carbide, Aluminum Oxide...etc
Finally what size did you get and how did it perform over the ports? any of the balls want to fall into the bypasses and grab...The reason for the long stone degazers I use are to prevent grabbing...sorry for all the questions..
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Honing
Nov 20, 2012 5:42:40 GMT -12
Post by chillidog on Nov 20, 2012 5:42:40 GMT -12
No grabbing experienced in the ports , the girt 180 , the size 2 1/4 ". Questions are why we are all here .
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Honing
Nov 26, 2012 17:04:27 GMT -12
Post by chillidog on Nov 26, 2012 17:04:27 GMT -12
I brought this on ebay USA for $15 ,took it's time to get here ,from China ! But now it's time to get serious on tuning Attachments:
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Honing
Nov 26, 2012 18:34:17 GMT -12
Post by thetinker on Nov 26, 2012 18:34:17 GMT -12
I got a hand held one as well, you will need it to set up tinytach. You will need to adjust the turns of the signal wire around the plug lead to make those suckers read somewhat accurately.
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Honing
Nov 26, 2012 19:14:39 GMT -12
Post by chillidog on Nov 26, 2012 19:14:39 GMT -12
I thought it was just the case of setting it to count one spark for one revolution . it either picks up the transmitted pulse in the ht lead or not .
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Honing
Nov 26, 2012 19:15:26 GMT -12
Post by 1650bullet on Nov 26, 2012 19:15:26 GMT -12
I use exactly the same rev-counter as well. Every time you finish using it, read your instructions to show you how how to reset and turn it of. Doing this will preserve the battery and the unit will last you for many-many Years. You can change the battery over (Battery is as round as a 10c piece) but it never seems to go back toghether properly. I wrap the wire around the plug lead about 6 times and use a bit of electrical tape wrapped around tight to make sure it stays there.
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Honing
Nov 27, 2012 18:46:58 GMT -12
Post by chillidog on Nov 27, 2012 18:46:58 GMT -12
Today I ran a test on the rev counter , I share and conclude the following ..... there is a delay in the reading and actual revs about 4 to5 seconds Although without verification it gave readings in the expected range the water pump works well on this motor and note the following which may be a useful guide with the small light flywheel tick over is at 1000~1200 rpm , slow idle 1500 rpm water pump flow starts at 1700 rpm . Good water flow at 2100 +rpm Remember this was running in a wheelie bin with no prop ,I expect better cooling water flow rates on the boat moving through the water you can view the test here youtu.be/xFZKvZLE5sIpeace ,love and veggies : )
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Honing
Nov 27, 2012 19:21:00 GMT -12
Post by thetinker on Nov 27, 2012 19:21:00 GMT -12
Try a few more turns and also a few less to see if delay is different Not sure if it sounds accurate engine certainly didn't sound like 5200
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Honing
Nov 30, 2012 17:02:13 GMT -12
Post by chillidog on Nov 30, 2012 17:02:13 GMT -12
this should give you guys some thing to think about ;D What do you reckon Tinker you can't say I'm not trying Attachments:
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