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Post by chicken on Nov 19, 2012 20:28:35 GMT -12
Its time the race boat was finished and have a face lift now schools finished.
So now im deciding what to finish it with ,what have you used?
Will be to go over a layer of sanded epoxy. Bunnings or Mitre 10 have any thing suitable?
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Post by chillidog on Nov 19, 2012 20:37:16 GMT -12
have you got access to spray gun chicken ?
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Post by chicken on Nov 19, 2012 20:47:26 GMT -12
Yeap sure do!
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Post by chillidog on Nov 19, 2012 20:59:53 GMT -12
I guess price is the issue . I high build primmer is what your after and then any two pack paint you like . you need to protect the epoxy from the sun and for a good finish and to fill the weave you are best with a high build primer . I'd never waste my time with single pot boat paint they are never as good no matter what they say , and always follow instructions and wear a mask !: )
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Post by Rex NZ on Nov 21, 2012 6:12:59 GMT -12
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Post by thetinker on Nov 21, 2012 18:28:53 GMT -12
Epoxy paint is very hard and you get a nice finish. But it chips very easily when applied to timber even over fi-glass.  , If you can find a paint that is a little more flexible might be a better idea. A shiny coat in the water is not the go. Team NZ go for a matt finish as it is a lot more slippery. Not sure how that works. |
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Post by Rex NZ on Nov 22, 2012 8:24:14 GMT -12
I've wondered about the matt finish too. It's too fine to create a 'golf ball effect' Originally I thought it had something to do with improving the adherence of a sub laminar layer, but that turned out not to be so
I was talking to a rowing skiff builder in Cambridge & this is how he explained the matt finish theory to me
As the bow crashes about it creates bubbles in the water. With a matt finish these bubbles cling to & roll down the hull & give a 'ball bearing effect'. With a smooth hull the bubbles don't cling to the hull so good
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Post by horsleyanarak on Dec 13, 2012 9:27:17 GMT -12
I've wondered about the matt finish too. I use an eggshell finish, which is satin not matt. You could always test the boat in primer before you top coat, to see if a matt finish is faster. I have been told that a scotch brite pad rubbed over the hull will increase the speed, but have not tried it. H-A |
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Post by scrounger on Nov 2, 2014 16:39:54 GMT -12
Many years ago I did paint tests for NZR for the rail ferries. Some of the ordinary house enamels performed as well as marine stuff. I have always taken the gloss of kayaks and dinghies with wet and dry. No rhyme nor reason, I just preferred it. My present seagull racing dinghy simply has a few coats of turps based sealer- undercoat which dries flat. It lasts great and is really easy to touch up. Last few years I have built dinghies in a disablity workshop. We had to use acrylic paint to minimise fumes and mess. It lasts OK but is really difficult to sand back for repairing dings etc.
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ross
New Member
Posts: 31
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Post by ross on Nov 4, 2014 18:52:21 GMT -12
I would not spent to much money on the paint as it is only in the water for approx. 4-5 hours over easter and a few hours for other events and then put in the shed for the rest of the year out of the U V rays and remember the more coats you put on the heavier it gets . the golf ball effect is more for air than water and the sail boats sand down with 1800-2000 grit wet and dry sanding length ways but what would I know I still like gloss !
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, If you can find a paint that is a little more flexible might be a better idea. A shiny coat in the water is not the go. Team NZ go for a matt finish as it is a lot more slippery. Not sure how that works.